четверг, 20 марта 2014 г.

From the archive, 20 March 1966: The rise of indoor climbing walls

As one of the first climbing walls is planned at Liverpool University, there is concern that artificial faces will lure climbers away from the real crags



An artificial crag of brick will, it is hoped, be built at Liverpool University's new recreation centre, for instruction and practice in rock climbing. This is an engaging idea. Well-designed and furnished with excrescences and recesses, it could be a useful aid to the acquisition of various climbing devices – movement on small holes, lay backs, jamming, mantlepieces and so on. The novice thus instructed could take his place on the rope more confidently; he would soon find that there was plenty more to learn on real crags.

Why stick at brick? It is, of course, solid and durable, and relatively cheap; and the architect of the centre hopes to find a climbing bricklayer to plan and build it. But if the idea catches on, other materials may be found more attractive. Sheets of some hard, rough plastic material would have advantages. They could simulate natural rock more closely. And they might be moved to present fresh problems and combinations. The novice who had successfully climbed a slab tilted at 65 degrees could then try it again at 75 degrees; two strips standing side by side could be rotated to form a corner or a chimney; a face that became too familiar would present new problems if turned upside down.



One risk must not be overlooked. Artificial climbing (in this new sense) might become so popular as to draw climbers away from the real crags, with their handicaps of distance, wet and cold, and occasional loose rock. It may seem improbable. But has not skating on artificial ice quite overshadowed the skating on natural ice that was so much enjoyed by, for instance, Wordsworth and Mr Pickwick?


The climbing wall at Liverpool University was opened by the minister for sport in December 1966.

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